 |
 |
|
In This Issue
Dear Gardener... A plague of Mildew Question of the Month Quick note about sprayers From the Garden Bookshelf SUMMER CONTEST!
|
|
Welcome!
Who are we?
Heritage Perennials® are grown by Valleybrook Gardens, an innovative and leading producer of over 1500 varieties of perennials, hardy ferns and ornamental grasses. Our distinctive blue pots of HERITAGE PERENNIALS® are available from independent retailers and dealers in many parts of Canada and the USA. We're passionate about perennials! We hope this newsletter helps you to enjoy your perennial gardening even more.
In order for the images on this newsletter to appear, please make sure that your web browser is up and running. If the images fail to load or part of the text appears to be missing, try reading the archived version on our website.
Our best-selling book, the Perennial Gardening Guide is a handy reference used by gardeners across North America — written by our own Horticulturist, John Valleau. Just released in a brand new 4th edition!
Learn more about the book and buy it here today!
Valleybrook Gardens GIANT PERENNIAL PLANT SALE will be taking place on Saturday, September 6, 2003 from 9AM to 4PM. The sale is at our ONTARIO nursery only, near Niagara-on-the-Lake. Please click here for directions and more information.
|
Dear Gardener...
This is a combined July/August issue of our newsletter, due to a busy summer travel schedule on my part. My apologies for taking longer than usual to reply to your many gardening questions! I've finally caught up just in time to head to the Perennial Plant Symposium in California this coming week. I've never been to California, so what a great opportunity this will be to see all kinds of unfamiliar plants and probably styles of perennial gardening that are completely new to me. I'll report my findings in our September issue!
Earlier in July I was on a vacation to Alberta and British Columbia. We drove from Edmonton through the Interior, landing in Vancouver for a few days before continuing on to Victoria. We stayed there with my niece, who has moved into a cute little house with practically no garden around it yet. What a wonderful opportunity for her to discover the joys of perennial gardening -- and she is real keen on the idea but has no idea where to start. So, what is a plant-geek uncle to do but head to the best local nursery and load up on all kinds of nifty plants for her, as a sort of house-warming gift? Now, shopping for plants for somebody else is tricky at the best of times. It's sort of like buying art: you have no idea whether this new painting will appeal to the person, clash with the sofa and all the rest. At least with art, you hang it on the wall and it doesn't die on you. And it doesn't need mulching, watering, cutting back or any of the other things that perennial plants demand to have done to them.
I bought plants that could never possibly survive for me here in southern Ontario; strange things I had only read about or seen in coastal gardens. Call it gardening by proxy, perhaps. I hope to return some day and see these unfamiliar plants thriving and flowering in their new home.
During the process of shopping I realized that purchasing plants is one of my favourite things to do. In some ways it's even more fun than planting and growing the things. And I don't think that I'm alone in this addiction. Many times, when visiting other private gardens, I've noticed a curious patch of not-yet-planted containers, usually a treasure trove of rare discoveries waiting for just the right spot in the garden before they eventually get placed into the ground. Those of us with this habit tend to be collectors, and this is especially obvious when you see us wandering around aimlessly with a pot in our hands, looking for some vacant spot to squeeze the thing in among all of the rest. It's not a particularly practical approach to garden design, but nevertheless it probably is the truth for a good number of us gardeners/collectors out there.
If this happens to describe you, my advice is to give in to your collecting instinct, but to also force yourself on occasion to evaluate the plants in your garden in a ruthless manner. Yank out those ones that have proven to be poor performers. Banish the plants that have sat there and done nothing after five years, or those that have taken over a half acre of much-needed space. Get rid of them! Give them away if you have to. In the long run you won't miss them, and just think of all that extra room to plant even better new treasures!
-- John Valleau, editor.
Pictured above is Phygelius 'Moonraker' (Cape Fuchsia), one of the plants now growing in my niece's Victoria garden.
|
A plague of Mildew
Every year, like clockwork, we receive dozens of questions about Summer Phlox (Phlox paniculata) and how to control that unsightly white coating of powdery mildew on the foliage. Powdery Mildew is a fungus, actually a group of different fungi, and each type tends to infect a very specific type of plant. The mildew on your Phlox is quite likely a different type than the one covering the Beebalm. Specific kinds of mildew are not likely to spread to completely unrelated plants. In any case, this is a common and widespread problem, most often affecting Asters, Chrysanthemum, Coreopsis, Delphinium, Lupines, Monarda (Beebalm), Phlox, Rudbeckia, Solidago (Golden-rod) and Veronica (Speedwell).
The spores of powdery mildew spend the winter on the dead foliage from last year. Spores are easily splashed around during spring rains, during watering and they also can travel by wind. Once they land on the leaves, they germinate and enter the plant tissue, becoming that visible white powder after a time and continuing their life cycle. Fungicides can be used as a PREVENTATIVE approach, staring in late spring or early summer and continuing throughout the rest of the season. Generally applications every two weeks will give the best control. There are a variety of products sold at garden centers for this purpose, including some organic types that usually contain sulphur. Read the label carefully. Make sure the product is registered for control of powdery mildew on ornamental plants. Follow the rate and label directions, especially anything it says about NOT spraying during periods of high temperatures. Certain products can burn foliage if used at the wrong time.
Many gardeners make use of baking soda -- 1 tsp. plus a few drops of liquid soap in a pint of water is the usual rate -- but I've always found this leaves a white powdery residue, then you might as well just do nothing and look at mildew instead. Powdery Mildew of Landscape Ornamentals from the University of Nebraska has a detailed guide to mildew symptoms and control. Here are a few general tips:
- Pick off and discard infected leaves as you notice them. Don't throw them in the compost pile.
- Do a thorough cleanup under infected plants in the fall, picking up any dead leaves and discarding them. Cut infected perennials right back to ground level and discard the tops.
- Start fungicidal sprays in late spring and continue regularly through the rest of the season.
- When available, choose more mildew-resistant selections of plants, such as Phlox paniculata 'David' (pictured above) and Monarda 'Jacob Cline'
- Keep Phlox, Asters, Beebalm and Rudbeckia regularly watered during the summer months. All of these become more susceptible to mildew infections if the plants are stressed. They may be less susceptible if grown in full sun conditions and with space around the plants for good air circulation.
- Using a mulch of bark chips or other organic matter may help to reduce spore splashing. A mulch will also help to keep the soil more evenly moist, reducing plant stress.
|
Question of the Month
You can ask a perennial gardening question of your own by clicking the "Ask an Expert" link on the top of this newsletter. Due to time constraints, please -- no questions on flowering shrubs, trees, evergreens, lawns, hydrangeas, roses, etc.
QUESTION: I have Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm' (Goldsturm Coneflower) in a full sun location. I noticed that some of my plants have black spots on the leaves. What should I do? Fabiola -- Massachusetts
ANSWER: 'Goldsturm' Rudbeckia seems to be coming down with Septoria Leaf Spot disease more and more these days. We certainly experience this here at the nursery and treat for it with a variety of different fungicide products. Usually in a home garden situation the problem is minor enough to ignore, mainly causing brown spots on the lower leaves. If it's really bad, do a good thorough fall cleanup and cut everything back to the ground before winter. Discard the dead tops rather than adding them to the compost pile, since rust spores winter over on the dead foliage. This Septoria Leaf Spot link recommends a number of fungicide products for control, but this needs to be started in early summer as a preventative approach. I would suggest trying some of the organic fungicides next year before moving to anything stronger. At this point in the season, either ignore the problem or remove and discard any really badly damaged leaves just to tidy things up a little.
|
Quick note about sprayers
Most gardeners find themselves out spraying for certain pests at times, even if the products being used are strictly organic in nature. One little reminder: if you make use of herbicide products for weed control, never use the same sprayer for applying fungicides or insecticides. Many times the herbicide residue cannot be completely cleaned out, and you might end up doing damage or even killing plants by accident. It's a good idea to invest in a second (and probably smaller) sprayer that is only used for fungicide and insecticide products.
|
From the Garden Bookshelf
Earlier in July when I was driving through British Columbia, I found myself whizzing by gorgeous stands of native wildflowers and wondering what they were. This always makes me frustrated, so I was thrilled to find a couple of handy guidebooks to help me figure the plants out.
Plants of Coastal British Columbia and Plants of Southern Interior British Columbia turned out to be two extremely useful books on my trip, both published by Lone Pine Publishing. These are readily available at tourist-type gift stores as well as regular book stores. It turns out that Lone Pine has published a whole series of similar native plant guide books for other regions of North America. As a botany-geek, I really appreciate the handy reference keys. These offer the user a way to look at the characteristics of a plant and they eventually lead you to the identity of each species through the simple process of elimination. Well, maybe not so simple for beginners, but there are plenty of color pictures and the books are exceptionally well organized and indexed. These are just the right size to slip into your backback or hurl into the back seat without injuring anybody.
I particularly like the information about edible or poisonous qualities, especially the anecdotes about traditional First Nations uses. Excellent value -- Bravo Lone Pine!
|
SUMMER CONTEST!
Fairly often our readers write in asking us to recommend good perennials for memorial or graveside plantings. We'd like to ask you about plants suited to this purpose. "Which low-care perennials would you recommend for memorial or graveside plantings?" We'll pick the three BEST entries and announce the winners in early September. Each will receive a copy of the new Perennial Gardening Guide. A sampling of the best entries will appear in the September, 2003 newsletter.
TO ENTER: give us your suggestions for graveside garden perennials and tell us all about why you chose them. Put Summer Contest in the subject line and send contest entries to: John Valleau. Entries must include a full name and postal address to be valid. Contact information will not be used for any purpose other than mailing out prizes for this contest, so your privacy is assured. Winners will be identified by first name, city and province or state. CONTEST DEADLINE: AUGUST 31, 2003.
|
"Stay tuned for more great ideas on successful perennial gardening... Out of the blue!"
|
 The best perennials come out of the blue... |
Copyright © 2000-2003 Heritage Perennials |
|
|
|
 |
 |